Oooh La La!

Tarte Tatin

First impressions can make all the difference in matters of life. A first impression is irreversible, it will stay etched for ever in your memory. It is a glorious stamp of approval or an unfortunate death sentence. It occurs in every new situation; when meeting new people, interviewing for a job, visiting a new city and of course, when trying a new dish. If you think back to a fare that you particularly love, or loathe for that matter, I am certain you will remember your first impression of it. The memories play back like an old film and you can remember where you were, what the dish looked like, and that all important first bite you took that would clinch the deal.

I clearly remember that ill-fated night when I was served Pate de Foie Gras avec Aspic. It was a crisp winter night in a remote ski resort in France. The dining hall of our hotel offered an impressive array of classic French delicacies, enough to keep you from wandering elsewhere for supper. Each night we would venture down to what seemed like an adventure of the palate. Confit de Canard, Gratin Dauphinois, Fromage d’Affinois, Eau de Vie. It was a culinary roller coaster, and I was along for the ride. Unfortunately all roller coaster rides come to an end, and too soon at that. Well this ride came to a screeching halt with the formidable Pate de Foie Gras avec Aspic. It was really a rather sad occasion. I was the tender age of 17, my mind was open and I was willing to try new things. When the waiter set the beautifully plated dish in front of me, I was excited. The pale creamy liver colored square on my plate was reminiscent of a smooth pate. The clear oval-shaped gelatin quavered at the slightest touch, gleaming menacingly in the soft lighting. I was nonplussed. Thinking that the Foie Gras was indeed the same pate I had known and loved, I spread a thick layer onto a piece of bread topped with a nice glob of aspic. Upon initial contact with my taste buds, shocking signals were catapulted through my nerve endings to my brain where it desperately tried to decode their messages. I was overcome with emotion, I believe my eyes even welled up with tears. How could it be? This pungent, gamy and intensely rich concoction floored me. It was not the mildly flavored country pate that I had become accustomed to. Yes the texture was lovely, smooth as silk, but the flavor overwhelmed my senses. The aspic did nothing to help the situation! Its gelatinous texture paired with the silky pate was bizarre to me and the salty flavor combined with the strong flavor of the Foie Gras sent me over the edge. I know that some of you must be thinking I am crazy. “Foie Gras is a delicacy!”, you say. Yes, I know. Perhaps my palate was too young and inexperienced to handle Foie Gras. But like I said before, first impressions can make all the difference and to this day I still have not forayed back into the precarious world of Foie Gras.

I am fortunate to be able to say that I have had far more astonishing first impressions than those I’d rather forget. One of my most cherished memories is of when I was first introduced to the glorious Tarte Tatin. The first time I discovered this French delight was actually in a restaurant in Amsterdam called Walem. My mother was working for Dutch couture designer Frank Govers at the time and his studio was across the canal from Walem. We headed over for coffee and a slice of apple pie, a typical Dutch pastime in the afternoon. This restaurant however did not serve your average Appel Taart, no, it served the most mind-blowing, upside down and dripping in caramel Tarte Tatin. That first bite was unforgettable. The soft, flaky crust was saturated in sweet, rounded caramel. The apples, luscious dark amber quarters that melted in the mouth. It’s almost as if it were the first taste of what was to be the greatest love affair. The ingredients are so simple; apples, butter, sugar and pastry. There is not a hint of spices or a drop of vanilla, but that is what makes this dish so impeccable. The flavors are pure and shine on their own.

Tarte Tatin is one of the few items that if I see it on a menu, I absolutely must order it. So naturally the time eventually came when I had to attempt making it myself. I was always daunted by the task, it seemed like the bar was set so high that failure was imminent. When I finally dared to attempt this masterpiece, I was taken aback at how simple it really is. Granted, I used store bought puff pastry, but the result was flawless. Buttery, sweet, caramelized and absolutely divine. I recently made the tarte as the grand finale to my French Affair meal prepared for my in-laws. What better way to end the evening than on a Tarte Tatin high?

Tarte Tatin (the cheats way!)
Adapted from the Williams-Sonoma Paris Cookbook

  • 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, defrosted
  • 2 lbs Golden Delicious apples, peeled, quartered and cored
  • Juice of ½ a lemon
  • 6 tbs unsalted butter
  • 1 cup plus 2 tbs sugar
  • Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream for serving

Oven proof 12 inch skilletPreheat the oven to 375° F.
Roll out the puff pastry into a round slightly wider than the pan and about 1/8 inch thick. Keep the pastry chilled in the fridge until about 10 minutes before needing it. In a large bowl, toss the apples with the lemon juice to prevent them from turning brown.

Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the butter and cook until the sugar melts and turns amber, about 6-8 mins. Tilt and swirl the pan but do not stir the mixture. Carefully arrange the apples on their sides in a single layer, using concentric circles and packing them in tightly. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, occasionally tipping the pan and spooning the caramel over the apples until they are tender and well coated with the sauce, about 30-35 mins. Remove the pan from the heat and place the round of puff pastry over the apples, tucking in the sides using a spatula. Bake the tarte in the oven until the pastry is puffed, crisp and golden brown, 25-30 mins. Wearing oven mitts, invert a large plate over the pan, and then in one swift move, invert the plate and pan together. Lift the pan away, allowing all the caramel to drip onto the apples and replace any dislodged apple pieces.

Serve warm with freshly whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

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