Bon Appetit – January 2010

Stop procrastinating. That’s what I tell myself, day in and day out. Sure, life can get in the way, sometimes you’re too busy, sometimes you just don’t feel like it. But enough is enough. If you don’t start now, then when? A New Year’s resolution this isn’t. It’s just Kismet that a new year is beginning at the same time that I finally got inspired  to dust off my long forsaken blog. You know how when you move and begin to sort through your belongings, you always find something you had long forgotten about? And you are overcome by a sense of nostalgia as you reminisce about it? That’s how I feel right now, re-discovering my blog.  A sense of comfort, as though it were just yesterday that I was last here, not over a year ago.

I recently received my first issue of Bon Appetit magazine in place of Gourmet. I must admit that at first sight I felt another pang of sadness at the loss of Gourmet. I almost resented Bon Appetit for still being around. Not because I had anything against the magazine itself, it’s just that I had always been loyal to Gourmet. Yet as I opened the plastic covering and pulled the magazine out, I was filled with an overwhelming sense of hope and excitement. The birth of a new relationship. I have to admit, I really enjoyed this issue. And I hope I continue to enjoy future issues. As I was making the Poblano Albóndigas with Ancho Chile Soup from this issue of Bon Appetit, it occurred to me that while I often review Gourmet and Bon Appetit recipes on Epicurious.com, I’ve never done so here. So with renewed inspiration, I plan to document my budding relationship with Bon Appetit and review its recipes here. It’ll be like an unofficial Bon Appetit Test Kitchen for the at-home cook. I plan to follow the recipe exactly as written and review it as such. Then if need be, I will experiment and add my own suggestions. I expect a wild ride and a tasteful journey, and I hope that you’ll come along for the ride.

Bon Appetit!

Gourmet Magazine

To say that I was shocked to hear of the demise of Gourmet Magazine is an understatement. To me, a world in which Gourmet ceased to exist was unimaginable. Gourmet has played an integral part not just in the home cooks life, but also in the lives of chefs, farmers and restaurateurs. Of course I would understand had all magazines suddenly gone out of business, but for Condé Nast to intentionally give the axe to Gourmet over some of its other publications is mind boggling. You would think its 70 year history would count for something more than a poor year of ad sales. Gourmet is not just a magazine, it’s an institute, a lifestyle, a breath of delicious fresh air. While subscribers will now receive Bon Apetit for the remainder of their subscription, it’s little consolation to the blow dealt by Gourmet folding.

Gourmet’s last issue will be their November issue, famous for its inviting and creative Thanksgiving spreads. Ironically, November is the issue that I always look most forward to, and have the longest history with. While growing up in the Netherlands, my mother and I would eagerly await the arrival of a package every few months from her best friend in the States. In this package we would find a few issues of Gourmet Magazine, as well as several NY Times crossword puzzles. I used to love sitting at the kitchen table, thumbing through our growing collection of Gourmet, picking out new recipes to try. The Thanksgiving issue was always my favorite. Perhaps it’s because it represented America, a place where I had left one foot behind. We had kept up the tradition of celebrating Thanksgiving in Holland, along with some fellow expat friends. It was the meal I most looked forward to out of any other, and today, little has changed.  So this year it is with the same excitement, simultaneously tinged with sadness, that I look forward to the November issue. Rest in peace Gourmet, you will be sorely missed.

• ½ cup (125g) whole milk
• ½ cup (125g) water
• 1 stick (4 ounces; 115g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• ¼ teaspoon sugar
• ¼ teaspoon salt1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature

In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to the boil.Once the mixture is at a rolling boil, add all of the flour at once, reduce the heat to medium and start to stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon. The dough comes together very quickly. Do not worry if a slight crust forms at the bottom of the pan, it’s supposed to. You need to carry on stirring for a further 2-3 minutes to dry the dough. After this time the dough will be very soft and smooth. Transfer the dough into a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using your hand mixer or if you still have the energy, continue by hand. Add the eggs one at a time,beating after each egg has been added to incorporate it into the dough. You will notice that after you have added the first egg, the dough will separate, once again do not worry. As you keep working the dough, it will come back all together again by the time you have added the third egg. In the end the dough should be thick and shiny and when lifted it should fall back into the bowl in a ribbon.The dough should be still warm. It is now ready to be used for the éclairs as directed above.

Notes: Once the dough is made you need to shape it immediately. You can pipe the dough and the freeze it. Simply pipe the dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets and slide the sheets into the freezer. Once the dough is completely frozen, transfer the piped shapes into freezer bags. They can be kept in the freezer for up to a month.

Chocolate Pastry Cream

• 2 cups (500g) whole milk
• 4 large egg yolks6 tbsp (75g) sugar
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
• 7 oz (200g) bittersweet chocolate, preferably Valrhona Guanaja, melted
• 2½ tbsp (1¼ oz: 40g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. In the meantime, combine the yolks, sugar and cornstarch together and whisk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Once the milk has reached a boil, temper the yolks by whisking a couple spoonfuls of the hot milk into the yolk mixture. Continue whisking and slowly pour the rest of the milk into the tempered yolk mixture.Strain the mixture back into the saucepan to remove any egg that may have scrambled. Place the pan over medium heat and whisk vigorously (without stopping) until the mixture returns to a boil. Keep whisking vigorously for 1 to 2 more minutes (still over medium heat). Stir in the melted chocolate and then remove the pan from the heat. Scrape the pastry cream into a small bowl and set it in an ice-water bath to stop the cooking process. Make sure to continue stirring the mixture at this point so that it remains smooth. Once the cream has reached a temperature of 140 F remove from the ice-water bath and stir in the butter in three or four installments. Return the cream to the ice-water bath to continue cooling, stirring occasionally, until it has completely cooled. The cream is now ready to use or store in the fridge.

Notes: The pastry cream can be made 2-3 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator. In order to avoid a skin forming on the pastry cream, cover with plastic wrap pressed onto the cream. Tempering the eggs raises the temperature of the eggs slowly so that they do not scramble.

Chocolate Glaze (makes 1 cup or 300g)

• 1/3 cup (80g) heavy cream
• 3½ oz (100g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 4 tsp (20 g) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, at room temperature
• 7 tbsp (110 g) Chocolate Sauce (recipe below), warm or at room temperature

In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly begin to add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon or spatula. Stirring gently, stir in the butter, piece by piece followed by the chocolate sauce.

Notes: If the chocolate glaze is too cool (i.e. not liquid enough) you may heat it briefly in the microwave or over a double boiler. It is best to glaze the eclairs after the glaze is made, but if you are pressed for time, you can make the glaze a couple days ahead of time, store it in the fridge and bring it up to the proper temperature (95 to 104 F) when ready to glaze.

Chocolate Sauce (makes 1½ cups or 525 g)

• 4½ oz (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 cup (250 g) water
• ½ cup (125 g) crème fraîche, or heavy cream
• 1/3 cup (70 g) sugar

Place all the ingredients into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure to stir constantly. Then reduce the heat to low and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens. It may take 10-15 minutes for the sauce to thicken, but you will know when it is done when it coats the back of your spoon.

Notes: You can make this sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator for two weeks. Reheat the sauce in a microwave oven or a double boiler before using. This sauce is also great for cakes, ice-cream and tarts.

I always look forward to throwing dinner parties. There’s something magical about gathering around a table with great friends, enjoying delicious food and fine wines together as the hours slowly pass. Before you know it, it’s midnight and your guests reluctantly start to leave because it’ll be an early start to get to work in the morning. You linger at the door saying good-bye for another half hour before anyone actually leaves. You shut the door still smiling, because of course all the fun has blocked your memory of the dishes waiting to be done.

On this particular occasion, there were plenty of dishes to do after a dinner party of 10 guests with 3 courses. The dessert alone created 40 dirty dishes! All I can say is thank god I have a dishwasher. Of course, I had to take the opportunity to try out some new recipes. We started with a Tomato, Goat Cheese and Onion Tart. I served each slice of tart with some spring greens tossed in dijon vinaigrette and a balsamic syrup drizzle on the plate. The tart was surprisingly simple to make and proved to be a hit. The fresh tomatoes helped cut through the richer flavours of caramelised onions and goat cheese. The main was an Herbed Roast Beef with Tomato Madeira Confit. The original recipe calls for a fillet or beef but I had made this once before and used an eye-round of roast beef with spectacular results. The thinly sliced medium rare beef is brought to new heights with the unctuous tomato confit. For dessert, I decided to experiment with a trio of lush Panna Cottas. I love the idea of having a few small tastings of desserts so that you can get some variety without being to weighed down at the end of a large meal. My new issue of Gourmet had arrived with a stunning recipe for Honey-Almond Panna Cotta with Lemon-Thyme Peaches. I knew I had to make it so with that recipe decided, I chose to make two others – a simple Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with Strawberry Coulis as well as a Cappuccino Panna Cotta with Cocoa Whipped Cream.

Unfortunately as I was too busy serving, I didn’t get any pictures of the starter or main. Not to mention that the pictures of the desserts are sorely lacking any style, but I had to at least get an image of these beauties before they disappeared. And disappear they did! Each little serving was devoid of any lingering smears, cream or sauce. A definite success that I look forward to repeating. The Honey-Almond Panna Cotta was my personal favourite, even though I am partial to both vanilla and coffee. All three were outrageously tasty, but the combination of honey, almond and peaches was stellar! I urge you all to make it immediately. Seriously, I’ll wait here. Let me know what you think.

Honey-Almond Panna Cotta with Lemon-Thyme Peaches - adapted from Gourmet, July 2008

For panna cotta:

• 1 1/4 teaspoon unflavored gelatin (from a 1/4-ounce envelope)
• 2 tablespoon water
• 1 1/4 cups heavy cream
• 1 cup plain low-fat yogurt (I used full fat Greek yogurt)
• 1/4 cup mild honey
• 1/8 teaspoon pure almond extract

For peaches:

• 1 1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon-thyme leaves (I used regular thyme and added a squeeze of lemon juice)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 3 peaches, peeled if desired, pitted, and thinly sliced (I used a small dice for the peaches)

Make panna cotta:

Sprinkle gelatin over water in a small heavy saucepan and let stand 1 minute to soften. Stir in cream and 1/8 teaspoon salt, then heat gently over medium-low heat, stirring, until gelatin has dissolved.
Whisk together yogurt, honey, and almond extract, then whisk in cream mixture.
Pour mixture into 4 small bowls and chill, covered, until set, at least 8 hours.

Prepare peaches:

Mince lemon thyme with sugar, then toss with peaches. Let macerate, stirring occasionally, at room temperature 20 minutes. While peaches macerate, let panna cotta stand at room temperature.
To serve: Top bowls of panna cotta with peaches and their juice. Drizzle with additional honey if desired.
Cooks’ note: Panna cotta can be chilled up to 3 days.

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Cappuccino Panna Cotta – adapted from Tyler Florence

Cocoa Whipped Cream:

• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
• 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

Espresso Panna Cotta:

• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon espresso beans, roughly ground
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin
• 1/2 a vanilla bean

First add the cocoa powder to the heavy cream for the cocoa whipped cream. Stir well to combine then cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Begin preparing the espresso panna cotta by placing the heavy cream, ground espresso beans, sugar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean and add these along with the bean to the pan. Bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat and steep for 6 to 8 minutes. Add the powdered gelatin and using a whisk stir over low heat to warm the mixture and dissolve the gelatin. Do not let it simmer. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve (this not only removes the vanilla bean and espresso beans, but also any undissolved gelatin) then pour into individual espresso cups. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until set, about 1 hour.

Once you put these in the refrigerator you can finish preparing the cocoa whipped cream (alternatively, you can do it just before you serve the panna cotta). Whip the cocoa cream until it begins to thicken and then add the confectioners’ sugar. Whip until soft peaks form and serve a spoonful over each of the panna cotta servings. Top with a raspberry.

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Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta – adapted from Gale Gand

For Panna Cotta:

• 3 tablespoons water
• 1 tablespoon powdered gelatin
• 4 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
• 1/2 cup sugar

In a small bowl, combine the water and gelatin and let soak about 10 minutes (do not stir). Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the cream, vanilla bean and sugar to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. As soon as it simmers, turn off the heat and add the gelatin mixture, stirring to dissolve the gelatin. If the gelatin doesn’t completely dissolve in 3 minutes, return the mixture to the heat and warm gently until dissolved. Pour the mixture into 6 to 8 ramekins or dessert cups. Chill, uncovered, 2 hours.

Serve with Strawberry Coulis.

Ready to serve

• 1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
• 2 1/2 cups bread flour
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 7 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 2 egg yolks
• 2/3 cup water

Egg wash:

• 1 egg yolk
• 1 tbs water

Place ingredients into bread machine according to manufacturers directions.
Set on dough cycle and run until end of cycle.

Place dough onto a lightly floured board and divide into three equal parts. Stretch or roll each part into 9″ ropes and braid. Place on greased cookie sheet, cover and let rise for about 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°.

Mix together egg yolk and water and brush evenly over bread, then sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds, if desired. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown.
Cool on wire rack.

In conclusion – though this cake took 3 days to make – the results were divine! The cake was moist, delicate and had a slight chew to the texture thanks to the almonds. The buttercream had a hint of caramelly praline but wasn’t cloyingly sweet, in part thanks to me leaving out 3 cups of the sugar it asked for! All in all, I still think this cake is suited better to colder days and climates, but it was a joy to bake and those who ate it licked their plates! Check out all the other Daring Baker’s creations for more jaw dropping gorgeousness.

Filbert Gateau with Praline Buttercream – From Great Cakes by Carol Walter:
Click here to see the Original recipe

Genoise:

Because of the amount of nuts in the recipe, this preparation is different from a classic genoise.

• 1 cup ground almond meal
• 1 tbs cornstarch
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar, divided ¼ & ¼
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• ¼ tsp grated lemon rind
• 3 large egg whites
• 1/8 cup warm, melted butter (100 – 110 degrees)

Position rack in the lower 3rd of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with greased parchment paper.

Whisk together the almond meal and cornstarch. Set aside. Put the yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, and beat until thick and light in color, about 3-4 minutes on med-high speed. Slowly, add 1/4 cup of sugar. It is best to do so by adding a tablespoon at a time, taking about 3 minutes for this step. When finished, the mixture should be ribbony. Blend in the vanilla and grated lemon rind. Remove and set aside. Place egg whites in a large, clean bowl of the electric mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed, until soft peaks. Increase to med-high speed and slowly add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, over 15-20 seconds or so. Continue to beat for another 30 seconds. Add the yolk mixture to the whites and whisk for 1 minute. Working quickly, sprinkle the nut meal in about 2 tablespoons at a time – folding it carefully for about 40 folds. Be sure to exclude any large chunks/pieces of nuts. Again, work quickly and carefully as to not deflate the mixture. When all but about 2 tbsp of nut meal remain, quickly and steadily pour the warm butter over the batter. Then, with the remaining nut meal, fold the batter to incorporate, about 13 or so folds. With a rubber spatula, transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or back of a spoon. If collected butter remains at the bottom of the bowl, do not add it to the batter! It will impede the cake rising while baking. Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles and bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. You’ll know the cake is done when it is springy to the touch and it separates itself from the side of the pan. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Invert onto a cake rack sprayed with nonstick coating, removing the pan. Cool the cake completely. If not using the cake right away, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap, then in a plastic bag, then in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If freezing, wrap in foil, then the bag and use within 2-3 months.

Sugar Syrup:

• 1/2 cup water
• 1/8 cup sugar
• 1 tbs Amaretto or dark rum or any other flavored liqueur

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the liqueur. Cool slightly before using on the cake. Can be made in advance.

Praline Paste:

• 1 cup sliced almonds
• 2/3 cup sugar

Line a jelly roll pan with parchment and lightly butter. Put the sugar in a heavy 10-inch skillet. Heat on low flame for about 10-20 min until the sugar melts around the edges. Do not stir the sugar. Swirl the pan if necessary to prevent the melted sugar from burning. Brush the sides of the pan with water to remove sugar crystals. If the sugar in the center does not melt, stir briefly. When the sugar is completely melted and caramel in color, remove from heat. Stir in the nuts with a wooden spoon and separate the clusters. Return to low heat and stir to coat the nuts on all sides. Cook until the mixture starts to bubble. Remember – extremely hot mixture. Then pour onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible. As it cools, it will harden into brittle. Break the candied nuts into pieces and place them in the food processor. Pulse into a medium-fine crunch or process until the brittle turns into a powder. To make paste, process for several minutes. Store in an airtight container and store in a cool dry place. Do not refrigerate.

Praline Buttercream: adapted from Bon Apetit, June 2006

• 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
• 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature
• 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted

Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter in large bowl until smooth. Add the powdered sugar 1/4 cup at a time, beating well until smooth. Mix in 1/3 cup of the Praline paste.

Apricot Glaze:

• 1/3 cup thick apricot preserves
• 1/2 tbs water

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and preserves to a slow boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. If the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the saucepan, add water as needed.Remove from heat and, using a strainer, press the mixture through the mesh and discard any remnants. With a pastry brush, apply the glaze onto the cake. If the glaze is too thick, thin to a preferred consistency with drops of water.

Ganache Glaze:

• 6 oz. (good) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, like Lindt
• ¾ cup heavy cream
• 1 tbsp light corn syrup
• 1 tbs Amaretto, or dark Jamaican rum (optional)
• ¾ tsp vanilla
• ½ – 1 tsp hot water, if needed

Blend vanilla and liqueur together and set aside. Break the chocolate into 1-inch pieces and place in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer into a medium sized bowl and set aside. Heat the cream and corn syrup in a saucepan, on low, until it reaches a gentle boil. Immediately and carefully pour over the chocolate. Leave it alone for one minute, then slowly stir and mix the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream. Carefully blend in vanilla mixture. If the surface seems oily, add ½ – 1 tsp hot water. The glaze will thicken, but should still be pourable. If it doesn’t thicken, refrigerate for about 5 minutes, but make sure it doesn’t get too cold!

Assembling Cake:

Divide the cake into 2 layers and cut out as many circles as possible using a round cookie cutter. Using a pastry brush, moisten the layers with the warm sugar syrup. Spread the bottom layer with a ¼-inch thickness of the buttercream. Place the middle layer over the first, brush with sugar syrup, spread with buttercream. Moisten the cut side of the third layer with additional sugar syrup and place cut side down on the cake. Gently, press the sides of the cake to align the layers. Refrigerate to chill for at least 30 minutes. Brush the top and sides of the cake with warm apricot glaze, sealing the cut areas completely. Chill while you prepare the ganache. Place a rack over a large shallow pan to catch the ganache drippings. Remove the gateau from the refrigerator and put it the rack. With a metal spatula in hand, and holding the saucepan about 10 inches above the cake, pour the ganache onto the cake’s center. Move the spatula over the top of the ganache about 4 times to get a smooth and mirror-like appearance. The ganache should cover the top and run down the sides of the cake. When the ganache has been poured and is coating the cake, lift one side of the rack and bang it once on the counter to help spread the ganache evenly and break any air bubbles. (Work fast before setting starts.) Patch any bare spots on the sides with a smaller spatula, but do not touch the top after the “bang”. Let the cake stand at least 15 minutes to set after glazing. To garnish the cake, fit a 12 – 14-inch pastry bag with a tip. Fill the bag with the reserved praline cream and or ganache. Decorate as you please. Refrigerate uncovered for 3-4 hours to allow the cake to set. Remove the cake from the refrigerator at least 3 hours before serving. Leftover cake can be covered with foil and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Hellooooo? Helloooo? Is there anybody out there? I know I have been missing for a while now but I am determined to blow the dust off my keyboard and get back to work! My poor, desolate and deserted blog is not happy with me at all however. At long last I was finally ready to make my way back into the world of blogging and take on the June Daring Bakers challenge. I had finally completed the challenge on time but once again – Blogger was down and would not let me post on time! Excuses, excuses, I know. But like they say, better late than never, right? And it would truly be a shame not to share this delectable pastry with you.

Thanks to Kelly and Ben‘s wonderful choice, I was truly challenged this month to make Danish Pastry and a Danish Braid. Though the task seemed daunting at first, it came together in a breeze and truly made me look like a pro to my husband and friends! The dough was supple and soft, extremely easy to work with. Speckled with orange zest, cardamom seeds and vanilla beans – the flavour and aroma were to die for! I decided to fill my braid with a homemade fruit filling and cream cheese. I made a delicious ‘jam’ of nectarines, blueberries, vanilla bean, cinnamon and sugar which I spread atop a layer of cream cheese whipped with sugar and an egg. After braiding the dough, I realised I made an incredibly stupid mistake – I forgot to assemble it on top of a piece of parchment paper for easy transportation to the baking sheet! It took me a while to pick up the long, delicate braid from the counter andplace it on the baking sheet but I somehow managed with minimal damage. Once proofed, I brushed the braid with an egg wash and baked it until golden brown. The scent in the air was irrisistable! We devoured the braid with copious cappuccino’s and espresso’s – the perfect accompaniement if you ask me! Make sure you check out the other Daring Baker’s braids for a myriad of fillings and shapes!

Danish Braid – inspired by Sherry Yard, The Secrets of Baking

For the dough (Detrempe – Makes 2-1/2 pounds dough):

• 1 ounce fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1/3 cup sugar
• Zest of 1 orange, finely grated
• 3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 2 large eggs, chilled
• 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
• 3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt

For the butter block (Beurrage):

• 1/2 pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

Dough: Combine yeast and milk in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed. Slowly add sugar, orange zest, cardamom, vanilla extract, vanilla seeds, eggs, and orange juice. Mix well. Change to the dough hook and add the salt with the flour, 1 cup at a time, increasing speed to medium as the flour is incorporated. Knead the dough for about 5 minutes, or until smooth. You may need to add a little more flour if it is sticky. Transfer dough to a lightly floured baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Butter block: Combine butter and flour in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle and then beat for 1 minute more, or until smooth and lump free. Set aside at room temperature.

After the detrempe has chilled 30 minutes, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a rectangle approximately 18 x 13 inches and ¼ inch thick. The dough may be sticky, so keep dusting it lightly with flour. Spread the butter evenly over the center and right thirds of the dough. Fold the left edge of the detrempe to the right, covering half of the butter. Fold the right third of the rectangle over the center third. The first turn has now been completed. Mark the dough by poking it with your finger to keep track of your turns, or use a sticky and keep a tally. Place the dough on a baking sheet, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. – Place the dough lengthwise on a floured work surface. The open ends should be to your right and left. Roll the dough into another approximately 13 x 18 inch, ¼-inch-thick rectangle. Again, fold the left third of the rectangle over the center third and the right third over the center third. No additional butter will be added as it is already in the dough. The second turn has now been completed. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes. Roll out, turn, and refrigerate the dough two more times, for a total of four single turns. Make sure you are keeping track of your turns. Refrigerate the dough after the final turn for at least 5 hours or overnight. The Danish dough is now ready to be used. If you will not be using the dough within 24 hours, freeze it. To do this, roll the dough out to about 1 inch in thickness, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and freeze. Defrost the dough slowly in the refrigerator for easiest handling. Danish dough will keep in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Danish Braid: Makes enough for 2 large braids

• 1 recipe Danish Dough
• Filling of your choice

Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll the Danish Dough into a 15 x 20-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick. If the dough seems elastic and shrinks back when rolled, let it rest for a few minutes, then roll again. Place the dough on the baking sheet. Along one long side of the pastry make parallel, 5-inch-long cuts with a knife or rolling pastry wheel, each about 1 inch apart. Repeat on the opposite side, making sure to line up the cuts with those you’ve already made.- Spoon the filling you’ve chosen to fill your braid down the center of the rectangle. Starting with the top and bottom “flaps”, fold the top flap down over the filling to cover. Next, fold the bottom “flap” up to cover filling. This helps keep the braid neat and helps to hold in the filling. Now begin folding the cut side strips of dough over the filling, alternating first left, then right, left, right, until finished. Trim any excess dough and tuck in the ends.

Proofing and Baking – Spray cooking oil onto a piece of plastic wrap, and place over the braid. Proof at room temperature or, if possible, in a controlled 90 degree F environment for about 2 hours, or until doubled in volume and light to the touch. Near the end of proofing, preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the pan so that the side of the braid previously in the back of the oven is now in the front. Lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees F, and bake about 15-20 minutes more, or until golden brown. Cool and serve the braid either still warm from the oven or at room temperature. The cooled braid can be wrapped airtight and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, or freeze for 1 month.

The first thing I thought of upon seeing this month’s Daring Bakers challenge was that it could not have come at a more opportune time. Morven, of Food Art and Random Thoughts chose Dorie Greenspan’s Perfect Party Cake and as luck would have it, I was about to throw a Birthday party for my best friend who had just flown in from Holland. You see, she had already ordered me to make her favourite Chili con Carne and Patacones and we were still debating over the dessert when I discovered our new challenge. We both agreed this was it (and well, I had to make it anyways). How much more fun can you have than a day spent in the kitchen with your best friend, swapping stories, drinking wine and licking buttercream off of the spatula?

Dorie’s cake is scented with lemon zest and the buttercream is brightened with a splash of the juice. Though we were allowed to play around with the flavourings, we both adore lemon and decided to stick to the original recipe for both the cakes and buttercream. Both the cakes and the buttercream were a breeze to whip up – no curdling involved! Though Dorie uses raspberry preserves for her filling, I knew I wanted to make the most of the gloriously ripe Florida strawberries I had on hand. After slicing the cakes in half I began to assemble the masterpiece. I spread a thin layer of strawberry preserves on the bottom layer, followed by the buttercream and slices of fresh strawberries. This was continued until the last layer was set on top and the entire cake was enrobed in the snowy white, glossy buttercream. We then liberally pressed on shredded coconut, stepped back and admired our work. It was done – a masterpiece of a cake stood before us basking in its perfection. But even though she was a sight to behold, being beautiful on the inside is what really matters. So when at last it was time for dessert, we lit the candles and sang the tune and my friend made her wish and blew out the candles.

She also blew off a good amount of coconut! Hmm…we hadn’t really considered that being an issue but hey, we all had a good chuckle!

The perfect slice

But boy was she beautiful on the inside! The cakes were moist yet fluffy, with the most delicate a crumb – almost dissolving on your tongue. The scent of lemon worked beautifully with the strawberries, balancing their sweetness with a hint of tart. The coconut added a note of the tropics and a slight chew to the texture. It was unanimous – everyone agreed it was indeed the Perfect Party Cake! It is such a versatile recipe that you really can have fun with the flavour pairings. Be sure to check out the Daring Bakers blogroll to see the creativity in action.

Demolished cross-section

Perfect Party Cake – adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours (makes 12 to 14 servings)

Cake:

• 2 1/4 cups cake flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 ¼ cups whole buttermilk
• 4 large egg whites
• 1 ½ cups sugar
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 1 stick (8 tablespoons or 4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• ½ teaspoon pure lemon extract

For the Buttercream:

• 1 cup sugar
• 4 large egg whites
• 3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice

For Finishing:

• 1/2 cup seedless strawberry preserves stirred vigorously or warmed gently until spreadable
• sliced strawberries
• 1 1/2 cups sweetened shredded coconut

Centre a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350F. Butter 2 9-inch round cake pans and line the bottom of each pan with a round of buttered parchment or wax paper.

Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk together the buttermilk and egg whites in a medium bowl. Put the sugar and lemon zest in a mixer bowl or another large bowl and rub them together with your fingers until the sugar is moist and fragrant. Add the butter and working with the paddle or whisk attachment, or with a hand mixer, beat at medium speed for a full 3 minutes, until the butter and sugar are very light. Beat in the extract, then add one third of the flour mixture, still beating on medium speed. Beat in half of the buttermilk-egg mixture, then beat in half of the remaining dry ingredients until incorporated. Add the rest of the buttermilk and eggs beating until the batter is homogeneous, then add the last of the dry ingredients. Finally, give the batter a good 2- minute beating to ensure that it is thoroughly mixed and well aerated. Divide the batter between the two pans and smooth the tops with a rubber spatula. Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until the cakes are well risen and springy to the touch – a thin knife inserted into the centers should come out clean. Transfer the cakes to cooling racks and cool for about 5 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the cakes, unfold them and peel off the paper liners. Invert and cool to room temperature, right side up.

To Make the Buttercream: Put the sugar and egg whites in a mixer bowl or another large heatproof bowl, fit the bowl over a plan of simmering water and whisk constantly, keeping the mixture over the heat, until it feels hot to the touch, about 3 minutes. The sugar should be dissolved, and the mixture will look like shiny marshmallow cream. Remove the bowl from the heat. Working with the whisk attachment or with a hand mixer, beat the meringue on medium speed until it is cool, about 5 minutes. Switch to the paddle attachment if you have one, and add the butter a stick at a time, beating until smooth. Once all the butter is in, beat in the buttercream on medium-high speed until it is thick and very smooth, 6-10 minutes. During this time the buttercream may curdle or separate – just keep beating and it will come together again. On medium speed, gradually beat in the lemon juice, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding more. You should have a shiny smooth, velvety, pristine white buttercream. Press a piece of plastic against the surface of the buttercream and set aside briefly.

To Assemble the Cake: Using a sharp serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion, slice each layer horizontally in half. Put one layer cut side up on a cardboard cake round or a cake plate protected by strips of wax or parchment paper. Spread it with one third of the preserves. Cover the jam evenly with a layer of buttercream. Layer the sliced strawberries in concentric circles. Top with another layer, spread with preserves and buttercream and strawberries and then do the same with a third layer. Place the last layer cut side down on top of the cake and use the remaining buttercream to frost the sides and top. Press the coconut shreds into the frosting, patting it gently.

Storing: The cake is best the day it is made, but you can refrigerate it, well covered, for up to two days. Bring it to room temperature before serving. If you want to freeze the cake, slide it into the freezer to set, then wrap it really well – it will keep for up to 2 months in the freezer; defrost it, still wrapped overnight in the refrigerator.

Banana Bread

I love a fresh banana, truly I do. There is something so satisfying about peeling back the thick, crisp skin only to reveal the pale flesh with a delightgfully creamy texture and natural sweetness. Why is it then, that whenever I succumb to buying a beautiful bunch, they simply while away the time in my fruitbowl? Their perfect complexion slowly deteriorates until the dreaded signs of aging begin to show – brown spots. And it doesn’t stop there. Soon enough, the spots join forces until the entire skin is covered in blackened patches. The once firm, smooth and flawless skin is rendered saggy, wrinkled and blemished. Does this mean that they should be tossed aside for a new bunch of fresh-faced bananas? Most certainly not! Whilst they might not look as pretty as their younger counterparts, their honeyed flesh more than makes up for their sad appearance. The luscious, ripened bananas are destined for glory – in the form of baked goods.

Though I often experiment with other banana-based baked goods, I can always count on my tried and trusted Banana Bread recipe to hit all the right notes. The candied banana flavour pairs exceptionally well with the aromatic cinnamon. Walnuts add an unctuous crunch to an otherwise, moist, delicately crumbed loaf.

Banana Bread

• 2 cups flour
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 eggs
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 4 very ripe bananas
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts plus 5 halves reserved for the top

Preheat the oven to 350F and grease a loaf pan.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and mix well to combine. In another bowl, cream together the eggs and sugar. Mash the bananas and stir into the egg mixture along with the oil, vanilla and cinnamon. Whisk well to combine. Stir the flour into the egg mixture in thirds, incorporating it well, then mix in the walnuts. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and press the walnut halves in a line into the top. Bake in the center of the oven for 45 minutes to an hour, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

La Sirena Grille in Laguna Beach, CA serves as the inspiration for these tacos. This tiny take-out shack with only a handful of tables serves up an impressive array high quality and made-to-order Mexican specialties. Their fish tacos and burritos are among my favourites and set the standard for what a top-notch, flavourful and fresh fish taco should be. I must give credit to my brother here for he is the genius who suggested to make fish tacos with my leftovers from Delia Smith’s Salmon with Black Bean Salsa. Let me tell you – these tacos did not compare to La Sirena’s - incredibly they were superior! Over the years I’ve perfected the dish and have come up with my own ‘secret sauce’. Though I prefer the flavour of corn tortillas, my husband swears by flour so we usually have both! Sometimes rather than tacos we’ll make giant, deliciously stuffed burritos. The flavour of these tacos continues to evolve as you chew – earthy, sharp, green, citrusy, bright. The earthiness of cumin, cinnamon and chili powder are elevated by the cilantro, ginger and lime zest. Though there are many strong flavours in this dish they come together in perfect harmony. I guarantee – after just one bite you’ll be transported south of the border sipping your cerveza.

Salmon Tacos – Adapted from Delia Smith’s Winter Collection

For the Salmon:

• 4 salmon fillets
• 3 fat cloves garlic
• 2 level teaspoons sea salt
• 1 1/2 inch piece of ginger root, peeled and finely grated
• grated zest of 2 limes, reserve the juice for the salsa and guacamole
• a generous pinch of ground cumin
• a generous pinch of ground cinnamon
• 2 tbs chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 tbs olive oil
• freshly cracked black pepper

With a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic and salt together to form a paste. Add the ginger, lime zest, cinnamon and cumin and mix well. Next add the olive oil, cilantro and a good grind of black pepper. Mix everything together well and spread evenly over each of the fillets. Cover with cling film and allow to marinate for at least half an hour. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 400F. Bake the salmon on a sheet until just barely cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes. Flake all of the salmon using a fork and mix together.

For the Black Bean Salsa:

• 1 can black beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 to 3 ripe but firm tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
• 1 red chilli, seeded and finely chopped
• a handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• half of a medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
• juice of 1 lime (reserved from salmon)
• 1/2 tsp salt
• a good grind of black pepper

Mix together all of the above ingredients and adjust seasoning if necessary.

For the Guacamole:

• 2 ripe avocados
• a handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• half of a medium red onion, finely chopped
• juice of 1 lime (reserved from salmon)
• 1 small garlic clove, minced
• 2 ripe but firm tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
• hot sauce
• salt and pepper

Scrape the avocado into a medium bowl and mash with the back of a spoon until it is partly pureed but still retains some chunks. Season with salt and pepper, and add the lime juice and garlic. Mix well. Add the tomatoes, onions and cilantro and a couple dashes of hot sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

For the Special Sauce:

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• juice of 1/2 a lime
• 1/2 tbs chilli powder
• pinch of salt

Mix all of the ingredients in a small bowl and add more lime juice to adjust consistency. It should drizzle off of the spoon.

To Assemble:

• Corn or flour tortillas
• shredded cabbage (undressed coleslaw)

Take a tortilla and spread on a thin layer of guacamole. Next layer on some salmon and top with a spoonful of black bean salsa. Top with cabbage and drizzle with special sauce. Fold it and enjoy with a nice cold beer!